I am in the gorgeous valley of Sangamchetti in Garhwal, about an hour from Uttarkashi and walking to a village higher up in the hills. Winter is coming: I hear her gentle footsteps echo in the snow up in the higher mountains and feel her breath in the morning air, see her shadow in the forest canopy and on the carpet of maple leaves on the ground.
And, as I cross village after village on foot and hitchhike on a passing scooter or two, it is impossible to miss the sight of women hard at work and I think of the many excursions that I have made to Garhwal and Kumaon at this time of year.
All through these October days – while in a cab or walking the hillsides or sipping a sweet-milky tea by the road – I have seen small groups of women and girls on their haunches all day (do try that sometime) cut the grasses below chir pine trees or under broadleaved oaks with dexterity and fluid motion and then carry back-bending loads of grass and firewood, trudging up slopes or picking their way gingerly down steep damp paths of stone and crumbly mud.
These loads of grass will be hauled midway up poles and trees in their farms for storage. The menfolk will help in this task, but cutting grass? Cutting grass is a woman’s job.
And then I think of another day
That day in October 2018, I had seen the silhouettes of women in a Kumaon community forest perched thirty feet up slender oak trees, lopping branches for fodder for goats and had marvelled and worried for them, for a wrong step – just one - and it would be all over. I could barely see them up there, but could hear their banter across the valley and occasional laughter beneath which is dead serious intent: when Winter removes her veil and enters these villages, there is hardship ahead - dull, bitterly cold, grey days of snow and frost – months of waiting that are now just weeks away. The livestock must survive till the Melt in March as must humans. The rivers that flow in these valleys are rivers of resilience.
Stocking up on food too is a woman’s job: in those fields down in the valleys by the Pindar and Sarayu rivers that year were fields of native rice and, on this walk today in end-October 2025, I see women labouring up the valley slope with wine-red harvests of ramdana (amaranth), an extraordinary, nutritious grain that has the name of the diety and is treated with as much reverence.
And I only see women at work - old moms and young grandmothers, young moms and older girls - harvesting, stacking, hauling; in the walk in 2022 as I crossed a field, there was musical banter, a lilt of harmony and such light-heartedness in the air as they worked that I had stopped to listen, much to their amusement, but today I see a tired cohort walk past with a steady gait: make no mistake, this is hard, rigorous, purposeful toil.
The men folk help out too, those who did not migrate or returned in 2020, but it isn’t a partnership of equals……
And today, when I reach the beautiful village of Agoda up in the mountain, after a final back-breaking scooter ride, I think of my trek guide in October 2022....
On that day, we are walking up the hill leading to Sunderdhunga and I ask Khullu Dhanu – of Rajput
ancestry - what his full name is. ‘Khilaf Dhanu’, he answers and laughs
readily when I follow up by asking him exactly what he is Against: ‘Ask my
parents, they named me!’ This guy, incredibly fit like true Pahadis, with a
ready, winning smile and a generous nature, runs up and down four thousand feet
of Himalayan hillside the way I stroll to the club. He appreciates my interest in the local ecology, so we bond well and chat about things, the way men who have never grown up to understand modern day
niceties do.
Along the way I ask him about his kids.
‘Just two. Both are boys,’ he says and adds, ‘So, we didn’t need to have any
more children.’ He laughs, with simple sincerity, this man whom I have grown to
like so much.
A week later that year, I am with Gagan, my old friend who lives in a village near Almora. He grins at my observation on patriarchy and its flavours. ‘My neighbour has just had a boy. After five girls.’ he says shaking his head, ‘Now they will stop the production line!’ He tells me that he only employs women at his micro-enterprise; they are sincere and responsible and trustworthy.
But not equal……
And that very same evening, I am at Shubham’s store, waiting for the rain - which has been relentless - to stop. He is away, and his younger sister is a tall, thin girl with a fetching smile and friendly manner. She has a year more of college in Nainital to finish and I have been told by Kiran and Renu, her neighbours, that she is assiduous, ambitious and motivated. Perhaps she has no choice.
‘What will you do next?’ I ask.
‘I am preparing to write the Civil Services exam,’ she says, with the confidence and assertion that would win any heart, ‘English is tough, but Sociology and Hindi are fine.’ She thinks for a few seconds. ‘I think I can make it,’ she says with a shy smile.
It is impossible – utterly bloody impossible – not to be touched.
It isn’t just the rain that retreats soon after, Patriarchy does too for a moment. Optimism lives in a thousand homes like that little one in the hills. May it win.
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| Two faces of hope..... |